Everyone’s an expert when it comes to this sublime amalgam of pasta, cheese, and black pepper. Some cooks prefer to simply toss hot pasta with Pecorino Romano in the age-old way. Others like to create a creamy pan sauce, relying primarily on Grana Padano, which, unlike Pecorino, melts beautifully. We’re in the latter camp (and we up the ante by adding the brightness of lemon), but that means technique is all-important.